Friday, February 25, 2005

Friday, February 25

The week has finally ended for us. It was a bit of a tiring week, as the students have definitely settled back in after the January break. They were a little bit trying this week. Joe does a wonderful job of taking it all in stride, while I always end up getting bent out of shape when the students are rude or disrespectful. Kids will be kids. We have an entire weekend to relax, though.

What are the latest developments - let's see. Good news! Joe has found a website offering German meats. He was practically drooling over the pictures of bratwurst and bacon. The best part is that they will deliver. Everything in Egypt can be delivered.

Also, we're looking into renting a piano, but we're just waiting for the guy to get one in. I, of course, am happy about that.

Other than that, it's business as usual.

Saturday, February 19, 2005

Saturday, February 19

The weather has finally gotten warm again. Maybe it is just for the time being, but maybe it is here to stay. Of course, when it's blazing hot in July, I'll be begging for the cold weather again. I do think it's supposed to get windy during March. We've heard that there will be so much dust and sand blowing in the air, even if the windows are closed we'll get a lot of dust inside. Yippy.

Not much is new. I've started a new tutoring job. It's with a 14-year-old boy, Amr, from the national section of our school. His parents want him to talk with a native speaker. They also want him to start working on S.A.T. skills. These kids work so hard to pass the S.A.T. They have to pass it if they are part of the American program. I think this job will be a good deal. It's not too tough to go and talk with someone for an hour or so.

The interesting thing is that I've finally met a woman who wears a full burka (or is it burqa?). You see women in burqas and wonder, "Does her husband force her to wear that?" Or, "What does she look like under there?" I know that it always makes me feel weird. However, Amr's mom wears a burqa in public. Her husband keeps telling me, "My wife is religious." He wears very western clothing and he travels to America frequently. She chooses to wear the burqa.

At home, she wears just normal clothes and only puts on the burqa to go outside where people will see her. The thing is that I am not supposed to tell anyone what she looks like. No one but her husband can see her. I go back and forth between understanding, and then sometimes I think it takes equality from women. The thing is in this case is that she chooses it.

She's so very sweet. When I arrived at their apartment, she kissed me on both cheeks. Then, of course, I had to have something to drink. They treated me very kindly. After I was finished tutoring, I got the grand tour of the apartment. It's very nice (Egyptian style), and I guess she put together everything herself. She was beaming as her husband told me about all the creative things she had done with the apartment. You have to love Egyptian decor. It's okay to have zebra stripe furniture mixed in with gold and glass furniture. It's all very glitzy.

One of the best parts is that they live in front of a huge park, and they told me that people run and walk in the park all the time. They said they would take me if I wanted to go. It's a ways away, but sometimes Joe and I could go and walk there. It's very difficult in the streets here. The sidewalks are always blocked by parked cars, and you have to be careful walking in the street because of the traffic.

So, other than that, we've been keeping the students busy at school. We are going today to set the date for our flight home this summer. I'm sure we will be back in July, probably around the 9th. It seems far away, but also so close!

Sunday, February 13, 2005


Our campsite from a distance. Posted by Hello

Another sunset shot. Posted by Hello

Sunsets in the desert can't be beat. Posted by Hello

Near our campsite. Posted by Hello

One of the most popular rocks carved by the wind. Posted by Hello

It's like this as far as you can see. Posted by Hello

Our driver gave Miss Sara's brother some tips on his scarf. Posted by Hello

Doesn't it look like snow? Posted by Hello

Chalk rocks like this are everywhere in the White Desert. They say the tree you see in the corner has been there since Pharonic times. Posted by Hello

Our desert transportation. Posted by Hello

The Hole in the Rock. It's really just a couple of feet off the ground. Posted by Hello

Joe at Crystal Mountain. Posted by Hello

I think it looks kind of cool in black and white. Posted by Hello

A view from the Black Mountain. Posted by Hello

Joe made it to the top easily. I took a little coaxing, but I made it. Posted by Hello

The climb to the top of the Black Mountain. Posted by Hello

While in town, most of the students decided to buy the traditional Palestinian headscarf to wear for the rest of the trip. Teenagers... Posted by Hello

Sitting in a collapsed window in the English lookout post. Posted by Hello

A view into a valley of the English Mountain. You can see part of the oasis town in the distance. Posted by Hello

Some of the terrain near the English Mountain. Posted by Hello

Our students, acting goofy as usual, as we climbed up the English Mountain. Ms. Sara, another teacher at our school, is wearing the pink headscarf. Posted by Hello

A man hanging out in his at his home near the Alexander the Great temple. The kids went and got some dates from his palm tree. Posted by Hello

I illegally used my flash to capture a picture of this relief in one of the temples. Posted by Hello

Some of the students on the trip. Posted by Hello

Sunday, February 13

Sometimes I just stop and marvel at the fact that I am in Egypt. Almost a year ago today, we accepted our jobs at EAIS. We never would have guessed that we would end up here, yet here we are. We spent this past weekend on a desert safari with a group of students from our school. We debated whether or not to go, but we really got a bargain. Everything costs so much more if we do it on our own, so we figured, what the heck, the students can't get into too much trouble out in the desert, can they?

It was a very good trip all in all. We started out on Thursday bright and early in the morning. Joe and I realized right away that we were going to be outsiders, as everyone was speaking in Arabic. We really didn't mind though, because it helped to reinforce all of the Arabic that we've learned. We even learned some new stuff too. There were three teachers, two teaching assistants, and about five tour guides, so we kind of felt like we were just tagging along. Everything was taken care of, from accomodations to transport and food. Mini-vacation for us!

It took several hours but we drove across the desert until we came to the Bahariya Oasis. The strange thing is that the desert became increasingly hilly, craggy, I would say. You will see from the pictures that the western desert in Egypt is not like all the deserts you see in the movies. There are hills, mountains, and rock formations all over the place. Not quite what I expected. I expected a vast stretch of sand - the kind of desert you see people dragging themselves across when they get abandoned in the movies.

The oasis itself wasn't as green and lush as I had expected but it definitely had more vegetation than the surrounding areas. We arrived at the hotel for a little rest and lunch before we set out sightseeing. Our hotel wasn't too bad. It had bungalows surrounding a central grassy area where you might imagine there should be a pool, but there wasn't. (The oasis towns are very conservative, we hear.) Apparently, Joe and I got one of the more comfortable rooms because we had a heater/air coditioner. We slept like babies after Joe cranked the heat that night.

The tour guides took us around to the sites in the town. We saw a governor's tomb with large reliefs on the inner walls. We also saw some of the golden mummies. The story goes that a man was returning home from his work one night, and his donkey fell through a hole in the ground. He fell down and into a tomb filled with thousands of mummies. We have heard that there were ten mummies, 1,000, and one book even says nearly 10,000. The most accurate account is that to date they've uncovered at least 100, which is the largest cache in Egypt. It's hard to know. They are from Graeco-Roman times, "the beginning of the end of mummification" as one book puts it. We got to see about ten of the mummies at a garage/warehouse looking place. They are called golden mummies because their faces are plated in gold. They were interesting, but the story of their discovery is the most interesting thing. The site is still being excavated so we couldn't actually visit it.

After that we visited a temple where Alexander the Great stayed. We saw some artifacts like coins, pottery, and the supposed handprints of Alexander. We aren't quite sure of the authenticity of these items, as they were just sitting around out in the open. You never do know in Egypt. There are ancient things everywhere, so it wouldn't be that surprising. Alexander's kartouche (name) has been removed from the temple and taken to the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.

We also climbed the English Mountain that night. It's called that because of an WWI English lookout post that lies in ruins at the top. It was fun climbing up with the kids. Joe and I have pretty much accepted the "crazy, unsafe" behavior here in Egypt. We only had a bus and one four-wheel-drive vehicle with us, and the bus couldn't drive up. So, we all climbed onto the top, sides, and inside of the four-wheel-drive. I think we set a record. In all there were 23 people hanging onto that jeep. (I was inside. I won't say where Joe was.) Amazingly, nobody fell off even as we drove over the rocky terrain. At the top, we watched the sun go down over the village below.

The next day was our true safari day. We stopped in the town to wander around for a bit. Joe and I got some postcards and wandered through the streets. A little girl stopped us and said, "Momkin, andak elam?" which means, "Do you have a pen?" We thought that was a little weird, but we said no and kept walking. Two minutes later, a little boy stopped us to ask if we had a pen. Again, no, but we couldn't figure out why they wanted a pen. Finally, when we were getting back on the bus, another boy asked us if we had a pen! We had one in our bag on the bus, so we gave it to him. None of us could figure out their huge attraction to pens, but we figured it was something very difficult to get in their town. If I ever return I will bring lots and lots of pens.

The town itself was very third-world. I hate to say that, but imagine what you picture Egypt to be, and the town would probably fit that picture. Mudbrick homes, kids riding worn-down bikes in the streets, village men in gallabayas (robes) and turbins. You see it here in Cairo, but the big-city, modern aspect of Cairo tames down the rural aspect. Joe and I were sure that we were more fascinated by the town than the Egyptians. We always get a feeling of, "Woah, we really are in a foreign country."

We stopped by two mountains on our way to the desert, Black Mountain and Crystal Mountain. We climbed a semi-steep but short route to the top of Black Mountain. You would think that the desert would be nothing but sand everywhere you look. It should be brown/tan, right? No! There were tons of black rocks. These are dolomite and volanic basalt for anyone who knows about geology. I guess the wind erodes the mountains and ancient volcanoes and scatters the black rock throughout the desert. It was a great view from the top of the mountain. There were minature volcanic looking mountains as far as you could see.

Continuing on, we stopped at the Crystal Mountain. It is basically made of quartz crystal. You can rub it off into your hands. Our students, despite the sign that said to take nothing, piled up their pockets and sweatshirts with crystal souvenirs. Joe and I got a pretty good picture in the "Hole in the Rock."

We drove on through the Black Desert until we reached the White Desert. It was truly amazing. We loaded up everyone into jeeps and started out across the desert. I never knew places like this existed. There were huge boulders of rock, whittled and carved into shapes over time by the wind. White, chalk rocks are everywhere, making it look like an iceberg riddled, artic desert. Very strange and surreal. The drifts of white looked so much like snow that it made Joe and I feel even colder at night. The sunset was beautiful, casting pinks, oranges, and blues against the rocks.

Camping with our students was an experience. Most of them had never been camping before. Only one girl had really been camping for real. They were completely amusing. Of course, Joe and I have been camping many, many times so it was nothing to us. It was fun watching them experience something totally new, especially since they are the rich, well-to-do, most often spoiled city kids. Just take, for example, the fact that I had to teach the girls how to go to the restroom without a toilet. One of the girls insisted she couldn't. I wondered how she was going to hold it for 24 hours. Finally, though, they all gave it a try. The kids complained about the tents. It was advertised that we would have nice, new tents and the best mummy sleeping bags. When we got to the camp, we had canvas tents, with no floor. There were mattresses and basic cheap sleeping bags. So much for the best tents and bags. The kids were very disappointed.

The students also didn't know what to do with themselves. We ended up watching a movie on a teacher's laptop until the battery ran out. Some of the students were very scared to be sleeping so out in the open. They thought a thief could come out and rob them or kill them. Egypt is devoid of murders like this! I joked that they should relax. After all, thieves would go for Joe and I first! The students ended up all sleeping together in a central area, not in their tents. They were too scared.

In all, it was a great escape from the noise of Cairo. It was so quiet in the desert. There were other people camping, but they were far from us. Although it was a little cloudy, the stars would appear now and then. There were more than you can ever imagine. We almost couldn't find the Big Dipper there were so many other stars in the sky.

We ended up being glad we went, since it was a get-away for us. Our students were great, so Joe and I relaxed and took it easy. We've always liked the natural, outdoors trips.

Sunday, February 06, 2005

Sunday, February 6

Okay, now this is just weird. When we went to Dashur, Joe took a picture of me by the Bent Pyramid. I didn't like the picture so we didn't post it. However, today Joe was looking through our pictures. He came across the picture. He came to my classroom and said, "Hey come here when you are free because I found something really weird." He showed me the picture, and do you know what was written on the rock wall behind me? My name. If you look closely in the small picture, you can see it. If you enlarge it, the name "Emily" is written plain as day. The weird thing is, I had initially stood in front of it, and Joe told me to scoot over more for the picture. I don't know, maybe we are easily amused or intrigued, but we find it really weird that I just so happened to move over so that the my name is clearly written on the rock. Our friend, Betsy, was saying that all coincidences have meaning. What could the meaning of this possibly be? Scroll down to see the picture.

Other than that interesting tidbit, today was our first day back at school. It was a little difficult getting up this morning, but we made it through the day. The students were talkative! Big surprise. I counted. Only 70 more actual class/school days before the end of the last term and the start of midterms. That's not so bad. I can do that. We have Thursday off this week anyway for the Islamic New Year.

Look to my right. On the wall. Posted by Hello